O’Conall Street

El Alamo is nestled in the heart of Texas. The famous last stand of a band of brothers and this week Hillary’s own. Very late in the day some eminent advocates for the former first lady have piled in with their own Black Eyed Peas appeal to the wavering Democrats in Ohio and Texas.

Big Stephen at Weber Shandwick had this one ready for me on my return from the Western Front. The lad’s (Feraghal O’Boyle, Ronan O’Brien, David Leach, Fiachra O’Brien, Michael McLoughlin, Aidan Culhane and myself) are back at the day job with a weekend full of memories. Somehow youth has never seemed more precious and war more tragic. This is not the time to take a position on any particular conflict but it is worth remembering that for every 100 soldiers in an army today less then five will fight on the front line. Back in 1916 90 would have experienced the sharp end of close quarter fighting.

At the Menin Gate last night at 8.00pm the local fire brigade sounded the last post as they have done every night since Nov 11th 1918. Only Hitler interrupted them for a brief few years, but the day the Nazi’s left the firemen returned. They will be there tonight and tomorrow night again remembering those who gave their tomorrow’s so we can have our today’s.

The drive from Flanders to the Somme takes you along the western front’s most famous sites. Arriving in the Somme valley, seeing the 74,000 names at Thiepval and acknowledging the epic achievements of the 36th Ulster Division, remembered at the Ulster Tower is thought provoking and utterly sobering. The blood sacrifice of the huge international army is everywhere. I counted 83 cemeteries just and forty seven nationalities.

Irishmen are everywhere. In the 16th Irish Division the fallen from ‘nationalist’ Ireland lie side by side with comrades from the UK, India, South Africa, Morrocco, France, Belgium, Canada and many more. Many of the states have since decided to erect their own memorials to the soldiers of the Great War. The finest is undoubtedly in Vimy where Canada built the most wonderful monument to its war dead. We arrived there from the living memorial that is the National South African monument at Devilles Wood. A wonderful circular building it makes no bones about South Africa’s own difficult history since the first world war. It’s a monument to everyone who went to war for the African state. From the Afrikaners in the Somme trenches to the ANC activists who fought for democracy, the building quite literally squares the circle and allows the modern republic to remember without undermining itself in any way.

The South African visit was a welcome boost after our pilgrimage to the only monument to the 16th Irish Division in the Somme. Nestled in the church grounds in Guilemont is a celtic cross. Do cum gloire Dé agus onora na hEireann (for the glory of god and the honour of Ireland) is the epitaph to the thousands who fell between the 3rd and 9th of September 1916 on the green fields of France. It is in stark contrast with the Ulster tower built within two years of the establishment of Northern Ireland and opened by the embodiment of the new jurisdiction, Edward Carson. They were quick to remember, it seems the ‘Free State’ was in a hurry to forget.

The flags of so many nations still fly today in France and Belgium. Some are still in the commonwealth although many are not. The empire is gone, Europe is at peace and still the flag that is missing is that of Ireland. Nowhere is the Republic of Ireland remembering its dead as a sovereign and independent state. The peace tower at Messine is wonderful and a fitting tribute to the first battle in which the two traditions fought side by side but it is ultimately a monument to peace and reconciliation on the island of Ireland. It is surely time the Republic of Ireland, free, confident and proud take its place amongst the modern states to honour its sons who went to war for Ireland and who made the ultimate sacrifice.

We sat down beside young Willie McBride yesterday. He lies on the banks of the river Aucre in Authille Cemetery alongside Muslims, Jews, Sikhs, Hindis and a lone German soldier.

Fearghal has us off to the Messine battlefield this morning. Ronan O’Brien has been looking forward to retracing William Redmond’s last hours. Like his fellow nationalist MP Tom Kettle who fell at the Somme his loss was a huge blow to the  16th Irish and the 36th Ulster. Yet another great Irishman down in a war some prefer to forget.

Have spent a splendid day in the company of friends in the Belgian town of Ieper. Defended till the death between 1914 and 1918 it became the allies’ bulwark against Germany. The battle for Passchendale was fought on its outskirts and the reminders of war are everywhere from Hill 60 to the shrapnel corner. The town was totally rebuilt against Winston Churchill’s wishes in the twenties as he believed it should be left in ruins as a reminder of German brutality. The local’s were defiant and brick by brick reassembled a beautiful Flemish spot.

There are no McDevitt’s on Menin Gate but there are thousands of other Irish names amongst the 58,000 for whom there is no grave. The Irish Peace tower stands on a hill over the final battleground where the 16th and 36th divisions pushed the German lines back in June 1917. There are some wonderful inscriptions as you walk in. They say different things but have a single message best summed up in the words of Tom Kettle:

To dice with death, and, oh! They’ll give you rhyme
And reason; one will call the thing sublime,
And one decry it in a knowing tone.
So here, while the mad guns curse overhead,
And tired men sigh, with mud for couch and floor,
Know that we fools, now with the foolish dead,
Died not for Flag, nor King, nor Emporor,
But for a dream born in a herdsman’s shed,
And for the Secret Scripture of the poor.

 Big Fearghal O’Boyleis a magnificent guide and has created a programme which will take us from here to the Somme and on to the other famous fields of Flanders. The war to end wars has been followed by 125 conflicts. It’s impact on our small island was immense yet it is only now that many are daring to explore this very shared part of our history.

Louise from Gerry Anderson’s own home town in pulling pints in the peace village and looking after the weary travellers. The perfect host and a friendly face and the end of a big day.

 Off to the last post now.

Ye good thing ye.

The country went stuffed turkey last night and put our Dustin in the fray for the least coveted prize in modern music, the Eurovision Song Contest.  Our hopes and dreams in Belgarde hang on Irelande Douze Point and the world’s finest avian artist.  It’s advocacy, it’s badvocacy, it’s ecumenical and evangenical. Poor old Johnny Logan will be turning in his botox.  

Stuff Barack - Vote for Dustin.

Up the Dubs!!!

Murphy, O’Gara, Trimble, Bowe….. Try!

Then Bowe again in the Canal - Hogan apex for number five.

Eddie O’Sullivan got his answer from the benches. His forced deployment of Murphy and Bowe consolidated a new look Ireland team which defeated Scotland today at Croke Park, keeping the hopes of another Triple Crown alive.

O’Sullivan got his victory despite his questionable skills. Enough to hang on for another while but a tragedy as the most talented Irish squad in recent history squanders its opportunity of greatness.

Croker looked wonderful and from an Ulster perspective Rory Best’s arrival gave the province a much needed boost and the national squad added depth. With ten minutes to go Eddie dumped the old guard from the bench on our hallowed soil. Typical of a one trick pony who by the way picked an Ireland A side that went down 67 - 7 in Perth last night.

The roar went up when Jordan Murphy was named man of the match. Oh Eddie, how wrong you are.

As Barack would say its time for change we can believe in.

A good friend sent me this with the disclaimer he did not agree with the article. It has sparked a debate within our little group and I am curious what others on O’Conall Street think. It’s by Margery Eagan and was published in yesterday’s Boston Herald.
I’m an Obama girl and my man throttled Hillary Clinton, again, Tuesday night.

Suddenly, the impossible is real.

Suddenly, I’m nervous. Very nervous, actually.

I’m nervous because an otherwise normal grownup told me yesterday she’s watched the will.i.am (Black Eyed Peas) “Yes We Can” Obama video about 100 times and gets “weepy” every time.

I’m nervous because a longtime political type, normally quite cynical, now waxes rhapsodic about Obama’s “cool.”

“He’s elegant, controlled, the best-dressed candidate ever,” he says. Never a red tie, yellow or bright blue. No, Obama does a subdued lean charcoal gray suit with a gray or silvery tie. Everything muted, measured, fluid. “He floats onto the stage, a bit of the Fred Astaire thing going.”

Fred Astaire?

This same man, 100 percent anti-illegal aliens, fears Obama could pull a Reagan or a JFK on the Mexican border, head down there, chanting, “Tear down this wall!” or even do an “Ich bin ein Tijuana!!!”

He’s with Obama anyway.

I’m nervous because Harvard political genius Elaine Kamarck told me Hillary understands the various messes we’re in far better than Obama.

Suppose Kamarck’s right?

I’m nervous about the “O’Bambi” factor. Will the terrorists move in next door when Obama’s in the White House?

I’m nervous because Michelle Obama, about whom I just wrote a fawning puff piece, now says that until her husband’s stunning ascendancy, she’s never before been proud of America. Huh?

Barack now claims she didn’t mean it. Oh, yes she did. We all know the insufferable, holier-than-thou, Blame-America-First types who lecture the unwashed from the rarefied air of Cambridge and Brookline.

If I wanted lecturing, I’d be with Hillary.

I’m nervous because too many Obama-philes sound like Moonies, or Hare Krishnas, or the Hale-Bopp-Is-Coming-To-Get-Me nuts.

These true believers “Obama-ize” everything. They speak Obama-ese. Knit for Obama. Run for Obama. Gamble - Hold ’Em Barack! - for Obama. They make Obama cakes, underwear, jewelry. They send Valentine cards reading, “I want to Barack your world!”

At campaign rallies people scream, cry, even faint as Obama calmly calls for the EMTs. When supporters pant en masse, “I love you!” (like The Beatles, circa 1964), Barack says, “I love you back” with that deliciously charming, almost cocky smile.

Oh - I’m nervous because it’s all gone to his head and he hasn’t even won yet.

I’m nervous because it’s gone to a lot of other people’s heads as well. Maryland Congressman Elijah Cummings introduced Obama last week in Baltimore and said, “This is not a campaign for president of the United States, this is a movement to change the world.”

“He walks into a room and you want to follow him somewhere, anywhere,” says George Clooney.

“I’ll do whatever he says to do,” says actress Halle Berry. “I’ll collect paper cups off the ground to make his pathway clear.”

I’m nervous because nobody’s quite sure what Obama stands for, even his supporters. (“I can’t wait to see,” said actress/activist Susan Sarandon, declaring full support nonetheless).

I’m nervous because even his biggest fans can’t name Obama’s accomplishments, including Texas state Sen. Kirk Watson, an Obama-man who humiliated himself when MSNBC’s Chris Matthews asked him about five times to name something, anything, Obama’s done. Watson hemmed. Watson hawed. Watson gave up.

I’m nervous because John McCain says Obama’s is “an eloquent but empty call for change” and in the wee, wee hours, a nagging voice whispers, suppose McCain’s right, too? Then what?

I am writing this on the PDA at the emergency relief dental clinic in Belfast City Hospital. After the politics show I was unable to ignore the agony and surrendered to the skeleton service available through the NHS. I arrived 20 minutes early two hours ago and am still waiting to be seen. Dentists have been exiting the NHS in their droves leaving very many with no option but to turn up at the emergency clinic for a patch up job before taking out the cheque book and a loan to pay for a proper private treatment. A sorry state of affairs and a crying shame on the state.

News has just reached my Blackberry of the plans to nationalise Northern Bank. I am not convinced this is the solution and am even less happy with the fact that it sends the worst possible signal to financial institutions who are not on top of their affairs. This particular episode has done the bank of England’s reputation damage too.

The Prime Minister accepts today that Scotland should be given more powers over its own affairs including on tax matters. Given our Celtic cousins already have the power to add three pence in the pound to income tax we can only assume they will now want to look seriously at varying business taxes, something we continue to fight for the right to do in Northen Ireland. Which brings me back to the debate on the politics show earlier. I have no problem paying politicians a good wage to work for us. At the end of the day you get the representation you pay for. Instead of tripping over each other to oppose a salary hike they should be telling us what they could do to justify it. A serious campaign to give the Assembly tax varying powers and some action on the NHS dental service would be a decent start.

Back to waiting!

I have been invited on BBC Northern Ireland’s Politics Show tomorrow to disucss politicians salaries and expenses. Over the past couple of weeks the issue has never been far from the top of the news agenda here. There have been reports about a possible 16% pay increase for our local MLAs and questions about whether they are worth it. The story of Ian Paisley Junior’s three salaries from the public purse continues and following the Conway affair in England there is a debate about whether family members should be employed by public representatives.

The bloggers have been considering the issues also. Henry McDonald on the Guardian Blog, Slugger,  A Tangled Web and Splintered Sunrise have all had something to say. What is interesting is that they and indeed the public seem more interested in the double or triple jobbing than the pay.

The Newsletterleads today with yet another Ian Jnr story, this time about the £62k he has claimed to pay rent for the DUP’s Ballymena offices. A good piece of journalism by Stephen Dempster and Sam MacBride which is likely to raise a further question or two.  

Just got the news that O’Conall Street has been shortlisted for the Best Irish Business Blog at the Irish blog awards.

Thanks for the nomination.

I attended a lecture by the renowned architect Daniel Libeskind to mark the launch of the University of Ulster Real Estate Initiative last night. Built environment is big business in Ireland and rapidly becoming a global enterprise for our top tier developers. The initiative is a public private partnership involving some of ireland’s leading property figures, the university of Ulster and Harvard University.

Libeskind was a musician before he decided to adopt architecture as a profession. The creator of so many iconic buildings in every continent he has more gongs then I have had birthdays. He had this message for Ireland. Development is a central proposition of humanity and buildings the the homes of human greatness. They only succeed in peace. Conflict restricts life and buildings need the elixir of humanity to succeed.

He also believes in simple value for money. Take the Imperial War Museum in Manchester, an amazing building built on a small budget. The impact is in the design not in the finish. The genius is in human intervention and creativity transforming a brown field site behind Old Trafford into a celebration of peace and a lesson to us all of the futility of war.

Born in post war Poland, he is your classic post conflict, post nationalist like so many Europeans of his generation. A rare breed on these shores, he builds for people. He believes in communities, shared space and urban freedom. Take a recent project in Beirne Switzerland which will bridge a huge motorway ring around the city with a wooden clad mixed development to incorporate a hotel, shopping centre, leisure centre and housing. The motorway connects Beirne with Germany and France but divides the city. He saw the opportunity to bridge the gap with amazing style creating a destination in nowhere. Imagine the Westlink bridged by such a project?

He talked about the new Grand Canal Theatre in Dublin and triple glazing with great design. Then ground zero. The day that changed his life and the project which above all will be his legacy. The hallowed sites  will remain, the footprint of the twin towers never to be built on again. They will be protected by a freedom tower 1776 feet tall and several other buildings. Yes there has been compromise in the design following extensive comnsultation in Manhattan but then compromise is central to democracy. That says Mr Libeskind is why he will never work for a totalitarian regime.

The lessons for us were clear. Be ambitious. Use regeneration to bring people together. Bridge divides and demand value for money and never forget buildings are expressions of liberal art. It was a pretty stimulating lecture. But is this city ready for such a liberal post nationalist built environment?